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March 2017, Howth – Ireland
Woohoo, we have finally touched Irish land. And since Dublin is so great, couldn’t help but wonder how’s the countryside.
We’re heading to the secret side of Ireland now. Howth, we’re on our way!
Take the train from Dublin center, and in 30 minutes or less (you can’t even finish a book chapter), you’re on the coast, inhaling the freshest salty air.
Howth is a bustling working harbor, where you can watch fishermen landing their catch, or racing yachts.
So we’re approaching the 200 years Old lighthouse first, and soon the view to the north opens up with Ireland’s Eye, a bird sanctuary, in the foreground.
The wind is blowing so cold that you can’t keep your eyes open. Let’s get out of the harbor and start some of the marked walking loops to the heart of the peninsula.
Where the road comes to an end, our route continues on a gravel path up along the cliffs and into a rugged cliffscape coastline. The rising ground to the right is clothed in green and covered with yellow wildflowers.
The cliffs where gulls looking for nesting places on the few tiny ledges, drop away to the restless sea, 50m below. Really, this is another world, almost untouched by humans.
More walking, climbing, hiking, strolling, crawling and walking again…feels like in the Lord of The Rings movie. 🙂
After a while along this gorgeous path, the Baily lighthouse comes into sight. There has been a lighthouse here since 1665, coal fired, but was so high on the hill that it was often obscured by fog.
And if the view wasn’t spectacular enough, the sun makes its way out of the clouds.
We decide to take the way back to the village, so we leave the cliff path and follow the red mark of the Tramline Loop.
The refreshing path across the heart of the peninsula walks you through charming family houses with private gardens, splendid local schools, daffodils and tulips leading your way.
Couldn’t end the day without a traditional fish chowder at Bloody Stream, the old railway station converted into a pub. Ordered 2 more fish courses I cannot remember the names, but trust me, the meal was delicious!
We finally reach the train station and jump in. Us and a couple of locals with their kids, all dressed up as the football national team. What do you know? Ireland is playing with Iceland today.
So, back to Dublin! Hmmm…who’s gonna win? 🙂
- Price: you can take the DART train from Pearse or Tara stations in Dublin, to Howth (last stop, can’t miss it); the round trip is 6 eur/person;
- Treks: there are 4 walking loops in Howth, depending on length and difficulty: Cliff Path loop, Tramline loop, Black Linn loop, Bog of Frogs loop; there are colored marks everywhere to guide you around;
- Advice: take some hooded clothes, it can get quite stormy. We were taken by surprise by the nasty wind!
Happy travels and stay safe!