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June 2025 – Étretat, France

This summer we hit the road for our first road trip to Normandy. Turns out, we seriously underrated the French coastline. And we’ve got the tan, travel tales, and way too many baguette and croissant fueled mornings to prove it. 🙂

Here’s what we learned, what we loved, and why you’ll definitely want to visit Étretat.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS IN ÉTRETAT

It’s a sunny Sunday afternoon when we finally reach the outskirts of Étretat. We park the car and follow the steady stream of people heading toward the beach like it’s the most natural thing in the world.

The distant cries of seagulls reach us first. Then comes the familiar salty breeze, long before we catch sight of the sea itself. And then, almost suddenly, it unfolds before us: sunlight dancing on water, a golden shoreline framed by majestic white cliffs.

We stop in awe. I already know: this holiday is going to be unforgettable.

A GLIMPSE INTO ÉTRETAT’S HISTORY

Étretat’s transformation from a humble fishing village to a fashionable seaside resort is remarkable. In the 10th century, it was under the authority of the Dukes of Normandy and later came under the control of the Abbey of Fécamp.

By the 19th century, Étretat had become a popular destination for French and English tourists, drawn by the trend of sea bathing, which was believed to be therapeutic.

Renowned painters like Monet, Boudin, Courbet, Loiseau, and Matisse captured the town’s dramatic cliffs and coastal charm, helping to elevate its reputation.

Maurice Leblanc, creator of the Arsène Lupin series, lived in Étretat and set many of his stories in and around the town. In fact, one of the rock formations in Étretat is the main mystery in his novel The Hollow Needle! Looks like I’ve found my next read. 🙂

Étretat’s history includes a somber chapter with the German occupation during World War II. Its strategic coastal position led to the demolition of much of the seafront, including the casino and several villas. As part of the Atlantic Wall, bunkers were constructed and tunnels carved into the cliffs. They are now ruins and serve as a reminder of the war and scars it left behind.

Today, Étretat continues to attract visitors with its spectacular cliffs and artistic vibe.

WHAT TO DO IN ÉTRETAT

• Maison Maurice Leblanc

Stepping into the house of Maurice Leblanc was like wandering through pages of a mystery novel. With a captivating audio story, clever riddles and clues hidden along the way, we felt like playing an escape game. It was a dream come true for the detective in me.

• Jardins d’Étretat

Climbing to Jardins d’Étretat was a bit of a workout, but the view from up there made every step worth it (no worries, you can take a train too). From a quick stroll, we ended up exploring every corner of this ethereal garden for hours.

• La Falaise d’Amont

And because we didn’t want to climb those steps again, we took a walk around the cliff towards Falaise d’Amont. The sea stretched endlessly, the village below looked like a painting, and there was this peaceful silence broken only by the wind.

• Falaise d’Aval

This is probably the best place to be in Étretat, the one that inspired Monet and so many artists. And yep, of course it had to involve steps again. But once we made it up and stood on that giant stone arch, we loved it: the wind blowing, waves crashing down below, an unreal view in every direction. It felt like we were standing on the edge of the world.

WHAT TO VISIT NEARBY

• Les Jardins Suspendus, Le Havre

The hanging gardens are a peaceful escape with a twist: botanical beauty meets sea view. After checking all the greenhouses (which by the way are gorgeous and carefully maintained), we quickly went for a walk around the port in Le Havre. It was an enjoyable day, and only 30 minutes away by car from Étretat.

• Palais Bénédictine – Distillerie, Fécamp

Spending my birthday in a stunning palace, surrounded by the scent of secret herbs? Well, not how i imagined it, but Palais Bénédictine turned out to be the coolest visit of our trip.

The palace is built by the creator of Bénédictine liqueur and includes a distillery that’s part of a guided tour. Wrapped it up with a cocktail tasting that definitely made me feel a little wilder…wait, I mean wiser. 🙂

WHERE TO EAT IN ÉTRETAT

La Flottille is one of the best rated restaurants in Étretat. We understood why, as it became our favorite too. Fast service and delicious dishes will make you come back for more.

They open at 7 PM and don’t take reservations. It was pretty fun to catch a spot on the cue outside. I’m proud to report that one time we went so early, that we were the first customers in line. 🙂

Don’t forget to check reviews before eating somewhere. There are some restaurants with a surprisingly low rating, so doing your research is useful.

HOW TO GET TO ÉTRETAT

• By Car

The most flexible way is by car, if you’re close enough. From the Netherlands it’s about a 6 hours drive. We did an overnight stopover in Lille, France to divide the journey in two.

• Plane+Train+Bus / Plane+Bus

If you’re coming by plane, Paris is the nearest airport. From Paris you can take a train to Le Havre, then a bus to Étretat (~3.5 hours).

Alternatively there is also a direct bus from Paris (FlixBus, 4 hours). Even though this is more budget friendly, it’s seasonal and doesn’t run daily.

ROAD TRIP BUDGET BREAKDOWN

• Accommodation: 900 EUR
• Food: 600 EUR
• Gas overall road trip (1200 km): 100 EUR
• Museums: 100 EUR
• Tolls: 50 EUR

*for 7 nights/2 pers.

WHERE TO STAY IN ÉTRETAT

Étretat has some charming places to stay, whether you’re after sea views or historic elegance, budget-conscious or luxury.

We found a cozy house with a private garden and parking just on the edge of town, 15 minutes walk from the center. We still talk about those slow mornings in Étretat: brewing coffee with the windows open, French melodies drifting through the air, prepping warm baguette slices with a swipe of butter.

BEST SEASON TO VISIT ÉTRETAT

If you’re chasing sunshine and that perfect golden-hour photo, the sweet spot to visit Étretat is between late spring and early autumn, specifically April – June and September. Peak summer (July – August) brings warmer weather but also more tourists. We visited just at the beginning of June and it was perfect.

So what do you think about this place? If you go, please drop us a line! We hope you’ll enjoy Étretat as much as we did.

Bon voyage!